Norway: Fjords, Hygge and Storybook Villages

This adventure began months ago during our wedding planning. A pop-up for a brand new ship, the MSC Euribia featured prominently in our social media feed. It offered the perfect itinerary; embarking Denmark, my country of birth, then taking us up through the

picturesque fjords of Norway, down to Germany and back to Denmark. It seemed like a perfect honeymoon getaway. But research quickly gave us pause as reviews of MSC were either very positive or dismal, the latter calling out a variety of deficiencies. We decided that, for seven days we could mitigate the bad (if it really was) so booked. Heads up, not only did our experience put us in the ‘very positive’ camp but quite frankly we attribute most of the negative comments to a combination of passenger attitude and unrealistic passenger expectations.

First let me say, I’m not a fan of the MSC online site and trying to get clarification from their telephone Customer Service was like pulling teeth but if you simply trust the process it functions like a well oiled machine. For example, our documents came as a single package instead of multiple downloads as is required by other cruise lines. Check-in took only a few minutes, and with minimum crowds. Scheduling our dining was orchestrated, ahead of time, by our very attentive dining host/hostess. This was not intended to be a review of MSC or the Euribia but this has proved to be an experience all of its own, a grand experience.

The cabbie taking us from Kastrup airport to the cruise terminal was initially confused by our request to be taken to the Oceankaj Cruise Terminal. After consulting Google he perked up at the 20 minute fare. That’s where the really big ships dock he would exclaim. At 183,500 tons the MSC Euribia is big, and yet her and the Titanic combined only match the size of Royal Caribbean’s big ships. The Euribia is a perfect size in our opinion. We dropped off our bags and proceeded to check in. A few minutes later we were walking up the gangway to deck 5 and our first drink of the day.

After a day at sea we awoke to the peaceful hamlet of Hellesylt, Norway at the head of the Sunnylvsfjorden fjord, which is a branch at the end of the 110 km Storfjorden fjord. Helleysylt is a village out of a fairytale with its roaring waterfall dividing the town in half. Everything is a lush green even though its late September. There are mountains all around us, dwarfing the 19 deck Euribia.

Fit joggers are seen running along the town’s path one minute and then halfway up the mountain a few minutes later. It’s an incredible sight, and a paradise in which to relax and be inspired. We didn’t get off the ship here thanks to a misunderstanding in offerings, so instead we took advantage of what this ship has to offer; hot tub and drinks anyone?

Disappointingly we left Hellesylt after dark backtracking our passage through the fjord

back to Alesund at its mouth. Alesund is best described as a model railway setting. All the buildings look like miniature creations all of the same architectural design thanks to a massive city wide fire in 1904. It’s raining as we board the tour boat for a trip back into the fjord but that’s no deterrent to an

awesome experience. The waters edge is dotted with colorful communities, each

looking like a miniature village set against a backdrop of mountains. Pictures do not do this setting justice. This is a place that must be experienced first hand.

Flåm is next up and its a village out of a fairytale.

We board the bus that is to take us to the starting point of our fjord tour. It meanders through mountain tunnels, one being 11 km long carved though solid rock, an engineering marvel. When we emerge we're at the embarkation point of the catamaran tour boat that will take us through the fjord back to Flåm.

Hundreds of waterfalls stream down the steep slopes on both sides of the fjord, the source of all this water hidden among the peaks high above. We marvel at the spectacle all around us, and ponder the motives behind the homesteads built half way up these seemingly inaccessible mountain sides. The whole trip is mesmerizing.

We come around a bend only to be blasted by a wind tunnel like breeze. It sends hair whipping straight back, jackets fluttering, and hands scrambling to secure loose items. Recovering from the initial shock we realize that the air is warm, tropical like, and with that the whole tour boat revel in this new and unexpected development. You never know what awaits.

Since this cruise started and ended in Copenhagen, Denmark it would be appropriate to chat a bit about this beautiful country as well. Copenhagen is after all the home of Hans Christian Andersen's fairytales like The Little Mermaid.

Denmark is also a country of over a hundred hidden trolls, thatched roofs, castles and fairytale villages. One of these villages is Ærøskøbing, on the small island of Ærø. It's narrow cobblestone streets, architecture from the 1600's, centuries old seafaring traditions, and quaint shops make it a must experience.

A future more in depth visit is clearly in store.